Fox Float 100RL forks

• The Fox manual should be used in conjunction with these instructions, I'm not repeating them here. It goes without saying you should be totally clean and de-grease all parts during assembly.
• Remove the Damper knob Allen key, whilst holding the knob firmly, DO NOT use the bottoming of the adjustment as your stop. loosen the 3 small grub screws in the blue lockout lever but do not remove them, this allows the lockout lever to be removed.
• Prepare a clean old marg' tub or something. Then unscrew the Top nut with a Socket, not an adjustable spanner. Loosen the bottom nut holding the damper unit in and holding the bottom of the fork leg over your container, tap the nut with a soft hammer.
• Remove the bottom nut totally and remove the damper, there's no need to cycle the damper as in an oil change, because you are about to disect it.
• Hold the bottom damper cap flats and turn the top nut flats, (just above the dull grey cylinder) to separate the damper cylinder.
• carefully remove the rod and piston, catching the remaining oil.
• Now with a good quality spanner, hold the shaft on the flats above the piston, and remove the piston retaining nut on the bottom of the shaft. A soft jawed vice could be usefull here.
• Carefully remove all the piston and shim stack components as one, note their order in case of accidents, but there is no need to separate them.
• oops! you slipped. Here's the order from the top then. Washer. Spring and inner spacer bush. Shim washer. Piston (3 slots uppermost ).Shim washer. Small washer then the Nut.
• If you have left it to late the small offending screw will fallout of the exposed rod with a tap, if not you can re-tighten it right now. I would not recommend removing it totally unless you have to, you have been warned.
• The Allen key required is the same size as the one used in the 3 screws in the blue lockout lever.
• Mine fell out after TF Tuned Shock repaired it the first time, you would think they know best. They appeared not to have used any thread lock on the screw. I was reluctant to add any myself, in my view it might be too difficult to remove in future for servicing I might be proved wrong. Its up to you, if you think its fallen out once and it will do it againthen use a small dab.
• There is no need to remove the damper adjuster rod completely. It is though essential if the top O ring is damaged because the rod flew out in use.
• To remove it, first remove the "clicker" retaining grub screw below the top cap (this holds a spring and ball bearing in slots in the rod. Be very carefull not to loose them.
• With the rod removed you can try the screw in the bottom whilst you can see it, to check for damage. This also shows you how tricky the task ahead is. Also check the rod is true, especially if it flew out and you forced it back in on the trails. Replacements for a bent one cost £20.
• I found getting the screw back into the adjuster rod a real pain. In the end I filed a lead-in point on the screw and removed the Lockout nut part from the top of the damper tube. This allows you to feel better for alignment. Once the screw is home and tight during assembly the lockout nut can be replaced over the damper rod and screwed as far as possible with out problems, but don't hard bottom it.
• Check the damper adjuster now works. Look in the hole at the bottom of the damper tube, and adjust the damper for less damping ( anti-clockwise ) you should see the threaded section disappear, the adjuster should come to rest against a stop. Screw it back in but don't go too far.
• Replace the clicker ball bearing, spring and screw ( with a touch of thread-lock on ). Adjust for a firm click action (temporarily put the knob on top to check) but do not overtighten.
• Replace the damper Piston and then cylinder parts as removed, some clean oil smeared on the piston seal is a good step to take.
• Fit back together and fill with 160 cc (ml) of 7wt fork oil. It dosen't have to be Fox oil, they don't make the stuff, Rock oil or Finish line would do perfectly well. Avoid any that claim to have seal swell additives, this might be good for motorbikes, but you don't want the stiction this will bring.
• At 11 stone I find 5wt oil preferable for more adjustment. And while were talking 65 PSI and 4 clicks of max rebound will do fine too. Not all XC guys like them rock hard you know.