Indian Himalaya - Leh Manalia. How high can you go?
This is just the beginning of our trip on unquestionably one of the greatest mountain roads in the world. The Leh to Manalia highway crosses the Indian Himalaya Range, but the highest motorable road is not even on our route, we are up here for fun. After a Delhi visit we acclimatize at 3500 metres in the Leh valley for 6 days, an essential process as we find ourselves virtually unable to pedal hard at this level to begin with.
Local rides in the shadow of the mighty Stok peak, are mixed with longer rides up the side of the Zanskar river and an amazing grade 5 rapids raft trip on the Indus river.
Here Indian celebrates being on top of the mountainbikeable world with a long travelled can of John Smiths.
Our First outdoor over night stay is just past the village of Rumpsi at 4730 metres, this is Isolation in a big way. Washing in the small river and eating by candlelight, then trying to sleep as your dry lips weld themselves shut.
The Sleep is needed as the next morning its an early rise to set off up the Taglang la, at 5280 metres, the second highest road pass in the world.
The views distract you from an epic descent as we drop to the Moray plains, for some sun bathing over a hot dinner, prepared by our travelling Gurka's. This is the life.
The gang of 4 get some serious descending in as we drop on some superb descents. Ducking quickly to just get under a low electric cable (yes really) is one of my most bizarre near misses on a bike.
Just past the settlement of Pang, we wash in freaking cold water and again eat under the stars after a magic day
And what a view it is , no light pollution and camp is still at 4500 metres
The next days ride starts through superb Pillars of earth erode to fantastic shapes, and blasted openings in the landscape. Set against one of the bluest skies I've ever seen the bleached landscape is stunning. That's Indian well protected from the cold and sun in plenty of sun block. Its full on off road for most of today with some cracking shortcuts compared to the Military vehicle route.
Scree drops follow tracks made by old walking tracks, which can cut miles off the sane route.
And Guess what, more of the same, this time we crest the 5065 metre climb of the Lachalung La, quickly followed by another superb drop and then its back up the 4900 metre Nakli La.
A superb mad descent of 500 metres to Whiskey Bridge goes through a series of 22 hairpin bends. The Gata loops are as low gentle trudge for loads of military vehicles we can see, but we don't need those.
There's a monster downhill that cuts right through the lot of them, made by the hardy road workers its one mental ride often jumping the banks of the road side.
Jamie our guide is loving himself, as the 4 nutters in our group are loving it. One final test is a toughie. The final section defeats all in the head, but Jack goes for it and survives. Proud to here he's the first to ride the distance out of all the trips here.
Basically get on scree, hang on and bounce of the walls of the rock cavern to do ant steering. Braking , no chance once your going there's no stopping.
Camp at the Tsarap-Chu River just past Sarchu is welcome at 4400 metres.
Next day and we are glad of our improving altitude training as its a 2 hour climb up to the saddle of the Bara Lacha Pass at 4880 metres
The views are stunning and we begin what is virtually a two day descent down to the barmy warm height of 3220 metres. The riverside trails give great views of the river valley and finally with willing students Jamie finds a trail he's been desperate to bag.
Only Jack, Indian and Middle-Ring Nige are game and we set of down a got track that was so amazing we named it the Golden Mile. One of the top ten MTB experiences ever.
We are now entering an alpine climate with green hillsides and forest in places.
But first we decide to send the others on ahead as we commandeer a jeep and go back and do the Golden Mile to start our ride the next day.
Other sites include Indian wading in a sea of goats and sheet and almost being dragged in their direction, along with the colourfull Indian trucks with all their messages painted on every available space including the windscreen.
One really mad session saw us race two long travelled moto-X bikes down hill for miles, a huge dustball and better brakes gave us some edge as long as it was technical, Jumping a gorge turn was just bonkers , so don't tell my mum OK.
The semi-arid Lahauli valley gives way to lush green slopes at the Himalaya watershed. This comes from the Monsoon rains, and yes we were to witness some first hand. By the top we were hiding from heavy rain, our views ruined by heavy cloud.
At the top they hire out Fur coats and hats for tourist to wear on their visit. We find this hard to understand untill we are told our final drop.
One crazy ride of an hour plus in a full on monsoon avoiding vehicles, jumping across more hairpins than I think the UK has in total was mad and gibber factor 1.
The pic shows Jamie trying to straighten a pringled wheel after jumping in a 2 foot rut to try and overtake on a corner at 40 mph, its a judge of his superb skills he was not battered as bad as the bike.
Our destination was a warm Hotel, riding to the door to be met by Champagne by the concierge, and then sitting around naked waiting over an hour for our clothes to arrive as we ate club Sandwiches and drank beer is one crazy end to an awesome trip.
There's so much more to this trip that photo's can't do justice too. An overnight stay in a Private Castle for 8 in Chandigahr with more servants than guests is one of them.
Getting served beer in a glass at 2am whilst in an outdoor swimming pool by a waiter in a full silver service fashion was bonkers, not knowing where my clothes were the next morning was another (cheers boys for finding them... a long story.)
Do it, its amazing and cheap and just so different from anything you'll experience in the developed world. Don't go if you'll hate the daily fight for slightly clean water, the Indian food, or you have any trouble sleeping at night.